Adorning the Afrofuture

Published Summer 2026

A golden necklace with a stone set in the center made by Douriean Fletcher

Douriean Fletcher, Necklace from the “Messengers” Collection [M1], ca. 2016 (re-created 2025). Courtesy the artist.

Douriean Fletcher’s World-Building Wearable Art

Interior, daytime. Fade up on a metalsmith at her workbench, crafting pieces of jewelry that will shape one of the most iconic film franchises of the decade. She beads and coils, hammers and buffs, pouring the history and culture of an imagined people into each glittering twist and curve. The jeweler is Douriean Fletcher, and the film is Marvel Studios’ Black Panther, the franchise that made her a breakout star.

Zoom out. Fletcher is a self-taught jewelry artist whose work spans television, film, and independent design. She made history by becoming the first jeweler ever included in the Motion Picture Costumers Union. Her work has been celebrated for its layered references and its commitment to handcraft, blending past, present, and future in wearable form. And from April 18 to August 9, 2026, visitors to the Walters Art Museum will have the opportunity to see her jewelry up close in Douriean Fletcher: Jewelry of the Afrofuture.

“Douriean’s jewelry is dazzling not just in its form, but also in its approach to adornment as a powerful tool for storytelling, cultural identity, and self-expression,” said Kate Burgin, Andrea B. and John H. Laporte Director and CEO. “By incorporating deep historical and cultural references within her work, including references to objects in the Walters collection, Fletcher is able to shape cinematic worlds that feel organic and reflect the adornment practices of communities throughout history.”

Even if you don’t know Fletcher’s name, you likely know her work if you’ve seen Marvel Studios’ Black Panther: a sinuous metal collar that twists around the neck of Nakia while she visits the United Nations; brass-and-bead chestplates that protect the Dora Milaje while they protect Wakanda; and a dramatic dress ornament that glitters on Queen Ramonda as she addresses the Tribal Council. But how did a self-taught metalsmith end up shaping one of the biggest film franchises in the world?

“Douriean’s jewelry is dazzling not just in its form, but also in its approach to adornment as a powerful tool for storytelling.”

Kate Burgin

Flashback. Raised in Pasadena, California, Fletcher began making jewelry as a personal exploration of her identity and cultural heritage. “The nucleus of my work is exploring myself and Self with a capital S, like my capacity, my creativity, my Blackness, and my womanhood,” Fletcher said. In an effort to better understand herself and where she came from, Fletcher traveled to South Africa in 2008 to learn more about her African roots. While there, she was profoundly moved by the crafts and makers she saw all around her, like intricate, colorful Zulu beadwork.

However, it wasn’t until 2010 that Fletcher got more involved in making art herself, after she saw someone making jewelry using copper wire. She was immediately attracted to the work and went on YouTube to learn wire-wrapping techniques. When she tried her hand at looping and coiling wire, “it’s as if this fire lit up within me, which I had never felt before,” she said. As she progressed in her craft, she sought inspiration from sources that reflected her African, African American, and American heritage.

Fletcher started researching the work of artists like Alexander Calder and Art Smith for ideas. Their bold, sculptural pieces and imaginative use of wire significantly influenced her budding techniques. Ancient pieces like a wire-wrapped Egyptian ring in the Walters collection also made a significant impact on the artist. “Seeing simple, handcrafted sacred objects created outside of Eastern and Western belief systems piqued my curiosity, and they changed how I think about using adornments to represent ideology,” said Fletcher.

In 2012, Fletcher moved to New Orleans, where she took a metalsmithing course to learn basic techniques. She dove deeper into the connections between spirituality, culture, identity, and wearable art through her artistic practice, incorporating beads and gemstones into her work and exploring traditional forms of adornment and their role in community and ceremony inspired by her travels to South Africa. Over time, by blending metalsmithing, wire-wrapping, and beading techniques, Fletcher developed her own unique style.

Then, in 2016, Fletcher met Academy Award–winning costume designer Ruth E. Carter at a private jewelry event hosted by actress CCH Pounder. Not long after, Fletcher was working as an extra on the miniseries Roots (2016), and Carter, the project’s costume designer, recognized the jeweler on set and invited her to create adornments for an upcoming scene. Although she had little time and few resources, Fletcher got to work. This marked her first foray into film and television.

After that initial collaboration, Carter and Fletcher teamed up to work on Black Panther (2018), Coming 2 America (2021), and Black Panther 2: Wakanda Forever (2022). Each project allowed the pair to more fully explore jewelry as a part of character development and world-building. By embracing the idea that adornment is a form of personal and cultural self-expression and a key element in storytelling, Fletcher was able to expand her practice from selling her jewelry at local markets to designing elaborate pieces seen onscreen around the world.

“Throughout history, we’ve utilized the things around us and put them together to tell people who we are.”

Douriean Fletcher

Jump cut. Opening on April 18 at the Walters, Douriean Fletcher: Jewelry of the Afrofuture explores these details of Fletcher’s life and work and many more in three thematic sections: her formative years and studio practice; her breakout television and film work; and her current artistic explorations. Through more than 100 works, including several objects from the Walters collection that have inspired Fletcher’s practice, this exhibition explores the artist’s jewelry as a powerful narrative tool in art, Black identity, and visual storytelling.

Interior, daytime. Fade out. A throng of visitors enter the exhibition. As they wind their way through the galleries, they discover the intentionality and craftsmanship that Fletcher has put into her work—and learn something about the way they choose to adorn themselves, too.

“When I started making jewelry, one of the first things that I recall researching and understanding is [that] jewelry was one of the first ways that humans used objects to differentiate themselves from each other,” said Fletcher. “I don’t know why I was so attracted to that, but throughout history, we’ve utilized the things around us and put them together to tell people who we are. That story is important to me.”

About This Exhibition

The Walters Art Museum presents an adaptation of Douriean Fletcher: Jewelry of the Afrofuture organized by the Museum of Arts and Design, New York, 2025.

The exhibition is co-curated by Barbara Paris Gifford, Museum of Arts and Design’s Senior Curator of Contemporary Art, Craft, and Design, and curatorial consultant, professor, and design historian Sebastian Grant, Parsons School of Design. Christine Sciacca, Curator of European Art, 300-1400 CE, is the point curator of the exhibition at the Walters Art Museum.

This exhibition is made possible, in part, by The Betty Cooke and William O. Steinmetz Exhibitions Fund, Guy Flynn and Nupur Parekh Flynn, Judy and Scott Phares, Anthony Evans and Kevin Sowers, Alex Cooper Auctioneers, Jabari Jefferson, Shaquayah McKenzie, Susan Weingast Brown and Thomas Brown, Jesse Salazar and Tom Williams, Mark Anthony Thomas, Travieso & Ziegler, LLC, and other supporters of the Walters Art Museum.